On this day, le 31 décembre:
Painter Henri Matisse was born, 1869




Matisse the Master: A Life of Henri Matisse, the Conquest of Colour, 1909-1954
A blog about French history, culture and cuisine by an American
whose mother's family originated in Normandie.
Que Dieu vous bénisse!




The Place de la Concorde is the largest public square in Paris. Situated along la Seine in the 8th arrondissement, it separates the Tuileries Gardens from the beginning of the boulevard-des-Champs-Élysées. Initiated by Louis XV's mistress, Mme de Pompadour and originally named Place Louis XV, the square was designed by Jacques-Ange Gabriel, Louis XV's architect, for the purpose of showcasing an equestrian statue of the King — which had been commissioned in 1748 by the city of Paris and sculpted by Edmé Bouchardon.
Construction of the square began in 1754 and was completed in 1763. It is actually in the shape of an octagon, and was once bordered by large moats which no longer exist. The square marks an intersection of two axes: The major axis is that of the Voie Triomphale (Triumphal Way) which extends east-to-west in a perfectly straight line from the former royal palace (now le musée du Louvre ), past the Arc du Carrousel and through the Tuileries Gardens, up the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe, and beyond — now culminating at the Grande Arche de la Défense in the Paris suburb of La Défense just across the northwest boundry of the city. The second (minor) axis is formed by the line between Place de la Madeleine, down rue Royale through the square and across the Pont de la Concorde, culminating at the Palais Bourbon.
Several decades after its construction, this square was to serve as a focal point for the bloodiest political upheaval in the history of France: the French Revolution. When the hordes of revolutionaries seized power, they renamed the square Place de la Révolution, tore down the statue of Louis XV and replaced it with a guillotine. Between 1793 and 1795, more than 1300 people were beheaded in public executions, including Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette and Robespierre. It is said that the scent of blood was so strong here that a herd of cattle once refused to cross the grounds.
Following the Revolution, the square underwent a series of transformations and several changes of name: place de la Concorde, place Louis XV (again), place Louis XVI, place de la Chartre, and once again place de la Concorde — symbolizing the end of a troubled era and the hope for a better future.
Today, the open-air square still looks quite similar to the way it did in the 1700s, save the actual ground — which now consists of tarmac and cement. Supplanting the guillotine is the powerful Obelisk of Luxor, a pink granite monolith that was given to the French in 1829 by the viceroy of Egypt, Mehemet Ali. The edifice, which once marked the entrance to the Amon temple at Luxor, is more than 3,300 years old and is decorated with hieroglyphics portraying the reigns of the pharaohs Ramses II and Ramses III. Gilded images on the pedestal portray the monumental task of transporting the monolith to Paris and erecting it at the square. Installed in 1833, the Obelisk — weighing 230 tons and standing 22.83 meters (75 ft) high in the center of the Place — is flanked on both sides by two fountains constructed during the same period. Having survived more than 33 centuries, the Obelisk has suffered the greatest damage during the past half-century by air pollution from industry and motor vehicles.
At each corner of the octagon are statues created by Jacob Ignaz Hittorf representing the French cities of Lille, Strasbourg, Lyon, Marseille, Bordeaux, Nantes, Brest and Rouen. French sculptor Guillaume Coustou's monumental statues of the Horses of Marly — located at the beginning of the Champs-Élysées — are copies of the originals which are now exhibited at la Louvre. At the south end of the square, the Pont de la Concorde, built by Jean-Rodolphe Perronnet between 1787-1790 and widened between 1930-1932, crosses the Seine, leading to the Palais Bourbon — home of the French National Assembly (Assemblée Nationale).
Other places of interest which border the Place are the Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume (originally Napoléon III's indoor tennis court) and Musée de l'Orangerie, both in the Tuileries Gardens, and the Embassy of the United States. Monet's "Water Lillies" are on display at le Musée de l'Orangerie. Le Musée de l'Orangerie originally was a hot house for growning oranges for the royal court.




Christmas (Williams-Sonoma Collection Series)

French (Williams-Sonoma Collection)




Suger’s vision swept France in a great wave of cathedral building. If one could sum up the French national soul in those years, it would have to be called "the gothic cathedral". The people of France put their heart and soul into its inauguration. As a nation, they contributed one third of their gross national resources to this effort.
Not only did Suger contribute to the cathedrals' inceptions in an organizational manner, but he actually helped to formulate the form and shape that they were to take. As a disciple of the theological works of an earlier Saint-Denis, Saint-Denis the Greek, who affirmed "God is Light", Suger once again declared, "Let there be Light", and the gothic cathedral was born, not as an architecture but as a theological idea. Even the gothic cathedrals which came soon after Saint-Denis (Chartres, Sens, Noyon, Paris) did not achieve the volume of light and lightness in architecture of the choir at Saint-Denis. The wheel window over the west porch is thought to be the first one to be filled with stained glass. If this is true, it must be considered as the mother-seed of the rose windows. Suger’s Saint-Denis was ahead of its time, even as an initiator.
The rebuilding of basilique-Saint-Denis under Suger has political as well as architectural significance. We will see the reasons for this further below. For Suger, of course, the primary significance of his church was neither political nor architectural but religious, insofar as he could separate the three. His main goal was to honor God and Saint-Denis. The latter deserves some attention at this point.
According to legend, Saint-Denis entered Gaul as a missionary in A.D. 250 and was executed in Paris eight years later. It was not all that easy. The Romans unsuccessfully tried roasting him on a gridiron, throwing him to the beasts, and baking him in an oven before they hit upon the idea of beheading him. That worked, but not immediately, for the decapitated saint picked up his head and walked two miles to the future site of the abbey before giving up the ghost.
However amazing his legend may seem, medieval historians made it even better by confusing him with two other figures of the same name. "Denis" is the French version of the Latin "Dionysius," the name Suger actually used. We encounter another Dionysius in Acts 17:34, converted during Paul's brief missionary visit to Athens. Five centuries later, in the late fifth or early sixth century, an anonymous Syrian theologian fascinated by the religious symbolism of light wrote a series of treatises which were attributed to the Dionysius of Acts 17:34. Eventually all the elements were combined and, according the legend, Dionysius was converted by Paul, became bishop of Athens, wrote the treatises, and eventually missionized France where he was martyred.
The identification is more important than one might at first imagine. The figure of Saint-Denis united the various aspects of the church in a peculiar way. As patron saint of France, his interests were tied to those of France in a twofold sense. His glorification was hers in a very direct way because he symbolized France. It was also hers more indirectly because, like other saints, Denis would not neglect to reward a favor, and thus one could expect him to intervene for king and country more enthusiastically if his church was generously endowed.
Denis also united the religious and architectural aspects of the new church. It is hardly a coincidence that both the pseudo-Dionysian treatises and nascent Gothic architecture are interested in light. As written above, Suger himself was fascinated by the religious implications of light and built accordingly.
Suger's ideal is expressed that:
The church would have "the most radiant windows" to "illuminate men's minds so that they may travel through apprehension of God's light.
Suger was quite explicit that artistic and architectural elegance didn't distract Suger from God, it led him to God. He said we could come to understand absolute beauty, which is God, only through the effect of beautiful things on our senses. He said, "The dull mind rises to truth through that which is material." Thus for Suger this new architecture was a theological statement. Geometrical harmony, he said, is the source of all beauty because it exemplifies the laws by which Divine reason made the universe itself. To Abbot Suger, drawing on the description in the Book of Revelation, the church came to represent the New Jerusalem, and the windows were the bejeweled walls of the heavenly city. A window would show a large figure of a saint in heavenly glory, with scenes from his or her life or legend arranged below like beads on a rosary. The larger rose windows had more complex themes, with prophets, apostles, saints and angels arranged in dazzling symphonies of light. Stained glass freed the Bible from its pages, allowing its stories to become visual tapestries, comprehensible to illiterate and scholar alike. Colors themselves took on symbolic meanings.”For bright is that which is brightly coupled with the bright, And bright is the noble edifice which is pervaded by the new light, Which stands enlarged in our time, I, who was Suger, being the leader while it was being accomplished.”


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